Apropos of
Greenpeace's endorsement of kangaroo meat, a writer at
my favorite libertarian blog introduces me to
australus, the culinary (a.k.a. "meat") word for
kangaroo. Awesome.
It surprises me that even while the list of English
collective nouns for animals has expanded to include many, many dubious group names, our lexicon of meat words has hardly changed at all, not since the 11th century
Norman occupation of England.
(Speaking of the
Battle of Hastings, at what point in history did it become easier to become famous for what you did than for how you died? That he supposedly got shot in the eye is prettymuch the
only thing I know about
King Harold II. See also: the Catholic saints.)
During the Normans' extended visit, a number of high class Old French words (e.g.
buef, Old French for cow) shimmied into our vocabulary, creating a lexical distinction between what was raised and what was eaten. Nearly a thousand years later, here's our active animal-meat lexicon:
calf: veal
cow: beef
deer, antelope, moose, caribou: venison
domesticated fowl: poultry
swine: pork
sheep: mutton
snail: escargot
squid: calamari
And occasionally:
kangaroo: astralus
shrimp: scampi
Besides
astralus, only three of the terms on this list are recent additions.
Escargot was (re)imported from French in the late 19th century, and while I don't have OED access, my guess is that the Italian
calamari and
scampi came along a bit later. The Online Etymology Dictionary dates
scampi back to 1930.
In my experience
calamari is almost always used instead of
squid, while
scampi only pops up in certain recipe names. I'd be remiss if I didn't also mention
long pork, a culinary name for human flesh; it was supposedly coined by the cannibals of either Samoa or Fiji.
(The Wikipedia article on
culinary names is fairly flabby, but it did point me towards two handy culinary euphemisms:
Rocky mountain oysters for buffalo, boar, or bull testicles, and
sweetbread for the thymus gland or pancreas of a young animal. And there's
tripe, of course.
Foie gras is used to describe duck and goose livers, but only when they've been artificially fattened by
gavage.)
Perhaps this is because they weren't necessarily
raised by anyone, but it strikes me as odd that English has no culinary names for
squirrel and
rabbit. We've been eating squirrel for a long time — my copy of
The Joy of Cooking still has a squirrel recipe — but apparently the
Anglo-Norman esquirel merely supplanted the Old English
acweorna.
Stranger still, Old French gave us
coney (and
rabbit for young coney) to describe an animal similar to the one we called
hare, and both names were able to exist side-by-side without either becoming a meat word — centuries later,
early American colonists had a similar choice (
rabbit vs.
hare) and basically stopped using
hare altogether.
(Somewhat related:
Welsh rabbit, the world's
tastiest ethnic slur. And rabbit fur is sometimes called by the euphemism
lapin.)
More understandable is the lack of a culinary name for dog meat, which the Koreans call
gaegogi.
(Not related: another fun meat-related word is
jerky, an alteration — misspelling? — of
charqui, itself apparently an English word borrowed from American Spanish.)
As any
Good Eats fan knows, the word
corn underwent a semantic narrowing. It used to refer to a number of kernels or seeds, or even just a bunch of coarse salt granules. So we call it
corned beef in reference to the salt packed around the brisket.
The word
meat is itself interesting for much the same reason: it
once meant simply "food."Labels: etymology, vocab